One of the World's Most Expensive Wineries: Château Latour's Terroir, Grand Vin and Second Wine, and Perfect Vintages
Hugh Johnson, the renowned British wine critic, once described it as such:
"If Lafite is a tenor, it is a bass-baritone; if Lafite is a lyrical poem, it is an epic."
This "it" is none other than one of the most sought-after and expensive wineries in France, and indeed the world – Chateau Latour. In the 1855 Bordeaux Classification, this chateau was recognized as one of the 5 First Growths, alongside Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Chateau Margaux, and Chateau Haut-Brion.
01. The Winery That Started with a Tower
The earliest document mentioning the esteemed name "Latour" dates back to 1331, when it was a heavily fortified military stronghold in an estuary region. In that year, Lord Pons authorized Gaucelme de Castillon to build a fortified tower (Tour Fortifiee) in the parish of Saint Maubert. "La Tour" simply means "the tower."
P.s. The original fortified tower no longer exists, but in 1620, the winery rebuilt a tower, named "La Tour de Saint-Maubert," though it was only used as a dovecote.
Subsequently, "Chateau Latour" appeared in the chronicles compiled by Jean Froissart in 1378. However, until the late 16th century, it remained a leased estate, and wine production was unremarkable. At that time, the vineyard area had not yet covered the entire estate, and its output already far exceeded demand. This situation continued until 1718, when Alexandre de Segur became the owner of the estate through marriage. With his arrival, the great winemaking history of the Medoc truly began.
Alexandre de Segur's son, known as "the Prince of Vines," acquired many famous chateaux in 1718. In fact, between 1718 and 1720, not only Latour but also Lafite and Mouton belonged to the Segur family!
Under the meticulous management of the Segur family, Latour gradually gained widespread recognition. In the early 18th century, a large number of British aristocrats and wealthy bourgeoisie became devotees of high-quality wine, and the wines produced by Latour stood out for their excellent quality and reasonable prices. They were highly sought after by British nobility and considered among the best wines in the Medoc at the time.
In 1714, the price of a barrel of Latour wine was only 4-5 times that of current Bordeaux wines, but by 1729, it had reached 13 times, and by 1767, a staggering 20 times.
In the 20th century, Latour was sold by the Segur family's heirs and changed hands multiple times. In 1989, the Allied Lyons Group acquired the shares of Chateau Latour held by Britain's Pearson Group for the astronomical price of nearly 1,800 French francs per vine, thus earning it the reputation of "the most expensive winery in the world." However, it wasn't until 1993, when François Pinault acquired controlling interest in Latour for 720 million French francs, that Latour fully returned to French ownership.
02. The Best Terroir in Bordeaux
1. Climate
Latour is located at the southeastern corner of Pauillac, in the heart of the Medoc, bordering Saint-Julien, and only 300 meters from the Gironde estuary. As British aristocrats' loyalty to Chateau Latour grew, the winery gradually began to plant its own grapes. The vineyard area slowly expanded from 38 hectares in 1759 to its current 92 hectares.
Due to the influence of the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf Stream, the Bordeaux region is known for its variable climate. The location of Chateau Latour, being close to the Gironde River, allows the large body of water in the estuary to regulate temperature. Winters here are mild and humid, the first half of spring is always cool and humid, the second half often rainy with rising temperatures, and summers are often hot and humid, only becoming dry in mid-July. Autumns are usually clear and crisp.
2. Soil
Overall, most of Chateau Latour's vineyards are situated on gravel ridges, at higher elevations and gentle slopes. The perfect combination of gravel and deep clay here, though rarely lauded, is a unique advantage for Chateau Latour.
Among all of Latour's vineyards, 47 hectares near the chateau are enclosed by stone walls, known as "L'Enclos," with soil primarily composed of clay and gravel. Many consider this to be the best plot in all of Bordeaux, and the heart and soul of Latour.
Naturally, the grapes from here are mainly used to produce the grand vin; while the over 40 hectares of vineyards outside the "L'Enclos" walls are used to produce the winery's second wine and Pauillac wines, with predominantly gravelly soil.
This soil structure allows the vine roots (especially old vines) to penetrate deep into the soil, up to 3 meters. The underlying clay absorbs groundwater, providing the necessary nutrients for the vines, while the upper gravel layer has excellent drainage. Whether it was the drought of 2003 or the heavy rainfall of 2010, the vine roots here could ensure the grapes' ripeness and optimal condition.
03. Winemaking Also at the Forefront of the Industry
The British consortium's takeover of Latour was not without benefits. They extensively restored and expanded the winery, acquiring several vineyards outside "L'Enclos," and improved the vineyard's drainage system. More importantly, in the 1960s, they decided to replace old oak barrels with new stainless steel tanks. This made Latour one of the first wineries in Bordeaux to adopt modern winemaking techniques.
Furthermore, guided by environmental respect, Latour aims to achieve a balance between vines, soil, and the environment to best express the terroir in its wines. Since August 2005, the entire Chateau Latour has practiced organic farming and obtained ECOCERT organic certification in August 2018. Simultaneously, Latour's employees have also received training in biodynamic farming, demonstrating the winery's firm commitment to vineyard sustainability.
04. The Three Wines of Latour
Distribution map of Latour vineyards (click to enlarge)
Purple area for Grand Vin vineyards, yellow area for second wine vineyards, red area for Pauillac vineyards
1. Grand Vin
In typical Bordeaux style, the grand vin comes from the winery's best vines. At Chateau Latour, this plot is in the center of "L'Enclos," where old vines averaging around 60 years old are planted, with Cabernet Sauvignon accounting for over 90%.
Chateau Latour's Grand Vin (Grand Vin de Chateau Latour) is known for its powerful and robust body, with aromas of blackcurrant and delicate black cherry. In great vintages, Latour's Grand Vin has immense aging potential, easily cellaring for decades, with aromas and flavors becoming increasingly complex over time, and tannins and acidity softening to reach their optimal state.
The style of Latour's Grand Vin is the "toughest" among the 5 First Growths, difficult to approach in its youth, and typically reaching its optimal drinking window after 20 years.
2. Second Wine
Latour's second wine (Les Forts de Latour), also known as "Petit Latour" or "Forts de Latour," was first produced in 1966. The grapes for Forts de Latour primarily come from three sources:
The outer plots within "L'Enclos";
Some vineyards outside "L'Enclos" with average vine ages exceeding 40 years, such as Pinada, Petit Batailley, and Saint-Anne;
Or, if during the tasting and blending stages, the winemakers find that the wine from a particular plot meets the second wine standard, it will also be added to Forts de Latour.
The aging potential of Latour's second wine is comparable to its Grand Vin. The difference lies in the second wine using 50%-60% new oak, and a higher proportion of Merlot in the blend, reaching 25%-30%. Parker once rated Latour's second wine as the best second wine among the 5 First Growths, retaining its powerful and robust character.
3. Third Wine: Pauillac Wine
In addition to the Grand Vin and second wine, Latour has also been producing a wine labeled Pauillac since 1989. The concept behind its development was to create a more accessible wine, better suited for food pairing in restaurants. The grapes for this wine usually come from younger vines, and any wine that doesn't meet the second wine's requirements will also be blended into the Pauillac.
Of course, the proportion of Merlot in this wine's blend is even higher, reaching 45%, and it's aged in only about 20% new oak. This wine typically reaches its optimal drinking window after 4-5 years of cellaring.
05. 7 Vintages Awarded Perfect Scores by Parker
To date, Latour's Grand Vin has received perfect scores from Parker for 7 vintages: 2016, 2010, 2009, 2003, 1982, 1928, and 1924.
Chateau Latour is widely recognized as the most consistently high-quality First Growth in the Medoc over the past 100 years. Since the 1996 vintage, all its wines have been considered among the finest! Besides the top-tier Grand Vin wines costing thousands, the "third wine," created specifically for food pairing and priced under a thousand, is also quite thoughtful.
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